By Coups

Some while ago Matt put a shout out to anyone wanting to join he and Catherine in Skye this September as they were unable to make the club trip in May.  A number of weeks, nay months, went by until John, Amanda and I got in on the act the week before!

So, with some nation-wide coordination I met up with Catherine at Manchester airport via South Wales and waited for Matt to land from Brussels, from there a night in the Lakes and the onward drive to Skye on Saturday, meeting up with John and Amanda at a bothy outside Carbost after their day long drive.

With a settled period in the weather it didn’t take long to discuss possible ridge attempts and ponder the question of the ‘style’ of attempt.  We had a deadline – John, Amanda and I were driving back down south on Wednesday.  After some discussion it was decided that a two day attempt would be made over Monday and Tuesday, starting at the beginning of the ridge, with the main aim to complete, touching each peak but evaluating the climbing sections when reached.

This left a day to prep and chat in more depth about our objective.  After a bit of faff a visit to the Cioch was decided to blow the cobwebs away.  We had a great day climbing and scrambling on a few of the classics with John and Amanda climbing Petronella and Arrow Route while Matt and I roped together for Little Gully and Collie’s Route each party ending up on top of the Cioch, with enough time for Highlander re-enactments…

Sword fighting on the Cioch… boys will be boys!

And so it was set – bags packed weighing too much (well I’m sure mine was).  Matt and I and John and Amanda paired up and ready to go.  We started on a glorious morning pacing out to the end of the ridge and up to Glars-bheinn, and when the guide books say it’s a slog up – they aren’t kidding! On the ridge steady progress was made enjoying the scrambling in good – misty weather.  Each party opted to miss the TD gap in favour of the spring and a water fill up on the diversion.  Our timings were steady, choosing to miss the Kings Chimney climb we vowed to ensure we climb the Inaccessible Pinnacle – well it is one of the peaks.  We arrived nearing nightfall but both parties nipped up the Inaccessible Pinnacle before we called it a day and after finding water (Coire na Banachdich) we got comfortable at our bivvy.

The rather lengthy ridge…

The next morning we awoke to weather that we hadn’t expected, mist and some rain – well it is the Cuillin after all!!!  Incredibly Matt got enough signal to get an up to date forecast and although it looked bleak for the morning it did suggest it would improve – game on.  We left John and Amanda in their bivvy and set out in the mist for the first peak of the day – Banachdich as we descended this we each knew after previous experiences in the mist that locating the ridges continuation to Sgurr Thormaid would be tough and indeed ourselves and two other parties were wandering in the mist, thankfully the ridge was located.  The weather improved steadily and the mist lifted up and down for a great section of scrambling through to Bruach na Frithe.

Is his bag too big? I think so…

The Bhasteir Tooth loomed ahead of us next, sadly here we were unable to locate our planned Lota Corrie route accepting after a few no goes that we would need to head up and down from its east ridge.  Undeterred we got our packs back on and headed for Sgurr nan Gillean the final peak on the ridge with great scrambling that still needed us to have our heads in gear.

Threading the needle just before the final summit

From the top we took a moment to take in the view of where we had been over the course of the past two days – BRILLIANT.

Looking back on a successful traverse

We didn’t hang about for too long as looking the other way we could see the Sligachan Inn a long, long way away and with light fading fast we knew we had to get a shifty on.  So after scrambling down the ridge and the corrie we hit the path aiming for last food orders at 9.00pm and as that aspiration passed by, we hoped for last orders at the bar!  We arrived at the Sligachan by head torch to be met by Catherine, and Matt’s parents (oh yes, didn’t mention they were up for the week – what a plumb week of weather to take your folks to Skye!) and two plates of food! Crackin end to a non-stop couple of days.

Food, beer, whiskey and chest!

So to sum up:  the ridge was a full on undertaking, continuously keeping you on your toes bringing with it some fantastic scrambling and mountaineering in impressive mountain scenery. Yes a bit glossy brochure I know but don’t be fooled if the weather had worsened at any point we would have been sent down early with our tails between our legs.  If I were to do it again I’d alter very little in the way we did it – I would however ensure my pack was considerably lighter!!